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Sunday, January 29, 2012

Battery Acid Erosion

The previous owner (PO) must have had some issue with his battery at some point in the bike's 30 year lifetime.  Older batteries required maintenance and contained ports which the internal acid can escape.  Often, on old bikes you'll see a lot of rusting in the battery box area, this is usually caused from a leaky battery or one which puked its insides on the bike at some point.  A lot of folks think that if acid gets in the bike they can just wash it off with water or wipe it off.  Nope.  You gotta neutralize it with something like baking soda, otherwise you end up with the following after 10 years:

Battery Box and Surrounding area.  The rust is from acid eating away the paint and exposing the bare metal.

PO used duct tape (oh boy) to reattach the wiring harness.  Probably after battery acid damaged the zip ties.  Problem is duct tape both captures moisture (acid) and decays over time.

From other side.  You can see what was underneath the duct tape and also that the acid ran down onto the lower frame and eroded paint there also.

This is part of the wiring harness that was under the duct tape.  The wires and fastener are eroded and will need to be repaired.

Transmission Rebuild

How do you know when your transmission needs attention?  Mine "whines like a toddler" (no disrespect to my dear daughter, Emmery) and is clearly in bad condition.  So, I'll be removing, packaging, and sending my transmission to Bob Clement in Roberts, Montana.  He owns and operates Bob's Motorwerks and is a "specialist" on all Airhead BMW's built between 1955 and 1995 and is a well respected Airhead Mechanic with a good reputation amongst BMW owners.  He was very helpful when I was buying the bike and spent some time on the phone with me explaining what to look for (exhaust valve issues and such), so I'm going to "roll the dice" and trust his reputation.  I've never dealt with a motorcycle mechanic via USPS and the phone.  But he has many, many years of experience and has helped hundreds of folks who are satisfied.  All he does is work on Airheads and early K-Bikes so he must be good at what he does!

The transmission (for my non mechanical friends) is the "thing" that sits just behind the cylinder head in the picture below.  It is right above that center stand thing holding the bike up:

Before Transmission Removal
After Transmission Removal
Top Side + Clutch Throwout Assembly

Rear View:  That Circular thing is where the Universal Joint Attaches.

Transmission Out - Engine Bell Housing

Frame and Motor - Getting to the bottom of the project.

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Carburetor Rebuild

Things in Carb Land are wrapping up finally!  It took about a week to get all the parts needed to do the job properly.  Thanks to EUBMW, I was able to obtain gaskets and o-rings for a very affordable amount.  I ended up having to buy the float valves from Bing Inc. directly and let me tell you, they were not cheap!

Before Pics, carbs they were quite dirty and I doubt had been serviced for many, many years:

To do the job properly, it requires a complete disassemble of all the little parts, removal of all rubber o-rings and gaskets, and a 24-hr soak in solvent to remove deposits.  Along the way, I do a little scrubbing with 000 Steel Wool and a nylon brush.  Below pic shows one carb fully disassembled and cleaned, next to one awaiting its spa treatment:

Cleaned carb parts with new gaskets, o-rings, and float valves, awaiting reassembly:

And finally ... after a lot of tedious cleaning and careful reassembly, the finished shiny products of my labor:

Sunday, January 22, 2012

The 1982 R100T Project

Behold pictures below of the latest motorcycle project: a R100T with 77k miles on the odometer.  She appears to be a good, solid platform for an enlightening winter project.  My current line of thinking is to repair all mechanical issues and along the way, take her in the general direction of a "cafe racer" and/or a "bobber" combination.  In my initial inspection while buying her, I noticed a lot of deferred maintenance, so I'm going to have to start there and as my budget allows, get into the customization I have in mind.  The mechanical "must do's" include all of the following:  
Customizations I have in mind include:
  • Remove "smog" or "secondary air system."  This will clean up some of the clutter around motor. DONE (I will post pics soon)
  • Correct the current "ride off" center stand (an aftermarket stand popular in the era, but it is currently difficult to use and the bike seems to want to tip over). -  DONE
  • Polish wheels  -  DONE 
  • Change bars to "club man" style or straight "drag bars" -   DONE
  • Look for a small faring  - Not Started
  • Repair the whiskey tango holes left over on the rear cowl from the previous owner's aftermarket luggage rack  -  DONE
  • Replace the seat with something more appealing -  DONE
  • Remove stock mirrors and replace with bar end mirrors  -   DONE

Here are some pictures from the first day I owned her.  I think you can click on these to enlarge.  Further down, I'll give some examples of the general direction I want to take her....

Day of Purchase -- Love the Rust

Seat has about 70k miles on it!

Love the custom holes in the rear cowl.

And this is the general direction I plan on going with the project: